Starting a Small Flock of Chickens
by Harvey Ussery

Getting Started

Chickens are the easiest of all livestock to raise. Their needs for feed
 and shelter are easily met. The eggs and meat you can get from a home
 flock will be superior to anything you can buy. And a flock of
 chickens is an endless source of fascination for the whole family.
 Give them a try!

Choosing a Breed

If your main interest in chickens is egg production, you might choose
 one of the Mediterranean class breeds - Leghorns, Golden or Silver
 Campines, Buttercups, Hamburgs, Blue Andalusians, Minorcas, etc.
 These breeds tend to be somewhat smaller and lighter in weight, as
 they put more of their resources into egg production rather than larger
 frames and greater muscle mass. They usually lay white eggs. Some
 of these breeds can a bit high-strung.

Meat breeds are typified by the Cornish Cross, a very fast-growing
 hybrid with a broad, plump breast, easy to dress out. These birds can
 be ready for slaughter at seven or eight weeks. (If slaughtered at
 12-14 weeks they produce excellent roasters.) Because they grow
 so fast, they are not as vigorous or resilient as others, and easily
 expire from episodes of sudden stress. [Some breeders in the
 "pastured poultry" movement are trying to breed new broiler
 crosses especially for production on pasture that are considerably
 more robust than the Cornish Cross. Typically, such birds require
 a little longer grow-out than the Cornish; but exhibit better vigor,
 none of the leg and heart problems of the Cornish, yet dress out
 with the sort of plump, broad breast the market has come to
 expect.]Many people prefer a compromise between the meat and
 the egg "specialists": The dual-purpose breeds, which lay well
 (usually brown shelled eggs) and grow fast enough to serve well
 as table fowl (though they are not as broad breasted as the meat-
production hybrids). Birds of this type are ready for slaughter at
 about 12 or 13 weeks of age. They are usually more gentle and
 easy-going than the Mediterranean group. Among these breeds
 are New Hampshire and Rhode Island Reds, Barred Rocks, Buff
 Orpingtons, Brahmas, Cochins, Wyandottes, and Ameraucanas
 (which lay pastel-tinted eggs).

Usually the discussion of breed choice ends here. However, I urge
 you to consider also the historic breeds, such as the five-toed
 Dorkings, which originated in Rome before the time of Julius
 Caesar. While not as productive as modern breeds, the historic
 breeds have other virtues to recommend them. For example, Old
 English Games may not be ready for slaughter until five months
 old and may lay only 200 eggs a year - but they can virtually feed
 themselves if given enough space to forage; the hens are devoted
 and fiercely protective mothers; and their meat was once the
 standard against which all other table fowl were judged.

Sources for Stock

Just-hatched chicks can be sent through the mail. Many people turn
 first to one of the mega-hatcheries such as Murray McMurray.
 They feature large selections and illustrated catalogs. My own
 preference is to seek out smaller, family owned regional hatcheries,
 which I have found may provide more personalized service and
 superior stock.

You can get both chicks and started stock from the local farmers
 co-op, though the choice of breeds is very limited. You can also
 connect with local enthusiasts who have stock to sell through
 classified ads or a publication such as the Valley Trader.

Finally, of course, you can breed your own. This may not be a
 realistic option if you're just starting out. But at some time in the
 future, you may find that it is quite a thrill to "hatch your own." You
 might try your luck with an artificial incubator. Or, if you're lucky
 enough to have a broody hen, you can just "let mama do it."

Brooding

If you start with day-old stock, you will have to be a surrogate
 mama to your baby chicks. Set up an enclosed brooder which is
 free from drafts and protected from rodents, cats, etc.; and which
 contains an absorbent litter such as wood shavings and a source
 of heat such as a 250-watt lamp or two. The waterer should be
 designed so that the chicks cannot wade into it and get wet.
 Temperature should be maintained so that the chicks are neither
 huddling under the heat source, nor huddling in a corner as far as
 possible from the heat. If they are scooting around the brooder like
 a bunch of little water bugs, all is well. Frequent monitoring of the
 brooder is the key to success.

Of course, if you have a mother hen who is raising your new chicks,
 you don't have to worry about any of this. When it comes to raising
 baby chickens, a mother hen is a lot smarter than you.

Housing

Housing for chickens can be extremely simple. If you already have
 an existing shed or outbuilding, it can probably be modified to serve
 quite nicely. The fundamental requirements are that the birds be
 protected from the wind or heavy drafts; and that they be completely
 dry. Chickens have a strong instinct to roost; so will be more content
 if furnished with some structure on which to roost.

It is important not to overcrowd your birds. Allow a minimum of
 three square feet per bird, up to an ideal five square feet or more.
 Of course, if the flock has constant access to the outside, they will
 do fine with less space in their "sleeping quarters" inside.

If you plan to build a new structure in which to house your birds,
 I strongly recommend that you keep an earth floor in the building,
 and cover it with a thick layer of high-carbon litter such as oak
 leaves, wood shavings, etc. (I do not think straw is a good litter
 material over earth floor, as it can support the growth of molds
 which can be a respiratory problem for the birds.) The constant
 scratching of the chickens incorporates the droppings into the litter,
 preventing the typical "caking" of manure which results in foul
 odors, flies, and possible buildup of pathogens. The constant
 mixing of the manure with the high-carbon litter results in a
 decomposition process similar to that in a compost pile. The
 billions of microorganisms driving this decomposition actually
 produce Vitamins K and B12, various natural antibiotics, and
 other immune-enhancing substances which the chickens ingest
 while scratching for and eating tiny critters in the litter. A study
 in the Ohio state university system in the 1920's demonstrated that
 chickens could obtain 100% of their protein from a mature 12-
inch litter. You can periodically (say once a year) remove the litter
 and use it as compost without further processing.

If you have to use an existing building with a wood floor, that's
 okay. Here, too, you should lay down a thick layer of dry, high-
carbon litter. (In this case, where the litter remains dry, a straw
 litter is okay.) Your poultry house will be far more pleasant for
 you and more healthful for the chickens. When you remove a mix
 of litter and manure from a structure with a wooden floor, you
 should compost it before adding it to the garden.

Whenever you notice a strong odor of ammonia, especially upon
 opening the poultry house in the morning, it is time either to clean
 out the litter, or add another layer of high-carbon material.

Joel Salatin has observed that, if allowed five square feet per bird,
 the chickens will continually turn in all manure laid down. At four
 square feet, there will be some "capping" of manure (accumulation
 of an impervious layer the birds cannot incorporate), especially
 under the roosts. At three square feet, there can be capping over all
 or most of the litter. If you find that the manure is building up in this
 way, simply use a spading fork to turn over the capped areas in
clumps. The chickens will then be able to break up the clumps and
 work them into the litter.

Whatever shelter you give your birds should protect them from wind
 and sharp drafts; but at the same time should allow for adequate
 ventilation. I installed solid outer doors and inner frame doors with
 wire mesh. This configuration allows me to open up the house
 completely to air flow, while still keeping the birds confined and
 protected when desired. Also, the birds are able to sun themselves
 in the direct sunlight coming through the mesh doors and windows
 at various times during the day.

Please note that, if their shelter is tight and dry, chickens are very
 cold hardy. It is not necessary to provide artificial heat; and it could
 be detrimental to do so. [Occasionally single-comb cocks will get
 some frostbite on combs or wattles. If this becomes a serious
 problem, you could keep breeds with rose or pea combs instead.]

You will of course design your housing with predator protection
 (especially at night) in mind. But don't anticipate threats like dogs,
 raccoons, and foxes only - a least weasel can get through any
 opening large enough for a rat! (I once lost 19 young chickens to a
 least weasel!) And speaking of rats: Remember that they can be a
 serious threat to chicks. Half-inch hardware cloth is a great thing!

Feeding

Commercial poultry feed contains products from rendering plants,
 reprocessed deep-frying oil, feather meal, and other low quality
 ingredients which can be quite stale by the time it is fed. For these
 reasons I prefer to grind my own feed every few days, using
 certified organic ingredients I buy from Countryside Natural
 Products near Staunton. Making your own feed may not be a
 realistic option for you. Countryside also offers premixed versions
 of the feeds I make, in 50-lb. bags. Fortunately, they are now
 delivering once a month into the Northern Virginia area. Call them
 at   888-699-7088   for more information about products and
 deliveries, or visit Countryside Natural Products
However, if local commercial feed is the only realistic alternative
 for you, by all means use it. If your birds have access to pasture,
 your eggs and dressed poultry will still be superior to any you can
 buy. If you do use commercial feeds, keep a couple of precautions
 in mind. Chickens are appropriately fed different mixes at different
 stages of growth, varying especially with regard to proportions of
 protein and of minerals, particularly calcium. It is important to feed
 your birds appropriate to their stage of growth. However, you
 should strictly avoid feeding chicks a chick formula containing
 antibiotics. Feeding such medications as a steady part of the diet is
 completely unnecessary in a small batch of chicks not stressed by
 crowding such as yours; and excessive use of antibiotics in our food
 supply has serious long-term implications for both animal and
 human health. If you cannot get an antibiotic-free starter mix
 (such as Countryside's), I suggest starting your chicks on the next
 stage formula ("grower mix" or "pullet developer") instead, perhaps
 supplementing with a little fish meal to boost the protein.

When using commercial feeds, you can also add a little kelp (dried
 seaweed) meal, an excellent natural all-round mineral supplement.

Whatever you feed, always make sure your birds have daily access
 to some green forage. When they are confined to the winter housing,
 you can dig dandelion and yellow dock up by the roots and throw
 them to the flock - the tops stay green much longer than other forage
 plants, and they are very palatable and highly nutritious to poultry.
 If you have a greenhouse, set aside a little space for greens (assorted
 grains, mustards, kale, rape, and other cold-hardy greens are good
 candidates) for the birds. Or sprout some of those same seeds and
 expose them to sunlight long enough for them to green up, then toss
 them to the flock. Remember, you don't need to feed a lot of green
 forage - even small amounts are highly beneficial.

You should also feed the flock grit (small bits of stone and gravel,
 which they need for grinding their feed in the gizzard) and, in the
 case of layers, crushed oyster shell as a calcium supplement. These
 amendments are not so important for birds on pasture, since they are
 able to pick up what they need on their own. I usually offer them
 anyway, since it is easy to do so and they are cheap; but they should
 always be provided (free-choice) to birds confined to the winter
 housing. Grit and shell are available at any farm co-op or feed supply.

Watering

Chickens must have fresh water available at all times. Waterers
 come in a number of designs. Choose a type which minimizes the
 surface area exposed, so the water will remain as clean and litter-
free as possible. Placing it above floor level on a stand will also
 help minimize contamination with litter. Guard against wet spots
 under or around the waterer. (Pathogens are more likely to grow in
 wet than in dry litter.) If wet spots do develop, use a spading fork
 to scatter the wet material so it can dry as the chickens work it into
 the rest of the litter.

I recommend some form of automated watering, which saves a
 significant amount of time and effort even in a small flock. There
 are various designs of vacuum-flow and float-activated waterers.
 The most sanitary of all watering systems is the nipple waterer.

Of course, watering becomes a greater challenge during freezing
 winter weather. If electricity is available in the poultry house, there
 are various heating devices that can be used. Carrying the waterer
 into the basement at night is also an option.

Eggs

Be sure to provide sufficient nest boxes (maybe one for each seven
 to nine hens or so) positioned above floor level; keep them lined
 with plenty of clean straw; and collect eggs frequently. All these
 measures help keep the eggs clean and unbroken, and reduce the
 likelihood of egg eating, a bad habit which - once established - is
 difficult to break.

I prefer not to wash eggs if they come perfectly clean from the nest.
 (They actually keep better if not washed.) If they have even the
 slightest trace of litter or - yes, occasionally - poop, I wash them
 with a half and half solution of water and vinegar, which dissolves
 the smear and has a sanitizing effect.

Fresh eggs do not need to be refrigerated if eaten within a few days.
 Just set them out of direct sunlight where it is not too warm.
 (Remember, in nature the mother bird doesn't refrigerate her eggs.
 They remain perfectly viable for up to two weeks as she day by day
 assembles her clutch before starting incubation.)